Pilgrimage of the Heart
Have you ever been on a pilgrimage? There's a story I've been wanting to share with you about a mini-pilgrimage I took in May on an island in Greece. It was one of the highlights of my journey, as it was both a physical and spiritual challenge and blessing.
What is a pilgrimage? Traditionally it’s a journey to a sacred place on foot. Sometimes it requires walking for days or weeks, such as with the Camino de Santiago in Spain or the Good Friday Pilgrimage to the Santuario de Chimayó in New Mexico. The word pilgrim connotes traveling to a foreign land. One might travel a great distance to begin a walking journey, such as from Glastonbury Tor to Stonehenge in the United Kingdom, to Kumano Kodo in Japan, or the Hajj in Mecca.
Each step on the journey is a commitment to being present with the divine, to be in an active state of devotion. It’s an opportunity to move at a different pace than our modern life. There’s simplicity in it, a purification. It’s as much an inner spiritual journey as an outward physical one.
A pilgrimage can be done individually or as a group. Even when it’s a solo journey, one usually meets other travelers on the way, often generating a feeling of interconnectedness with all who have felt the call to walk the same path – past, present and future. There are grooves in the earth from the steps of the travelers before you showing you the way.
In May, I was staying on the peaceful car-free island of Hydra in the Mediterranean with my family. We’d been in Greece for a week, and I was deeply moved by the beauty and wildness of the land and sea, as well as the presence of the Greek Orthodox churches.
We had a free day and I was looking for a bit of an adventure on my own, and also longing to spend more time with the churches. I received a recommendation to make a trek to the top of the island, where there was the Monastery of Prophet Elijah (Profiti Elia). I could have spent the day by the beach, which I also love, but this quest called to me.
As I was preparing for the trip up the mountain and gathering the supplies I’d need, it dawned on me that this was a pilgrimage. I was destined for a holy place on foot. I sat in prayer and felt this journey for me was a purification – of the past, of family karmas, of illusion. I set a spiritual intention of union and dissolving any sense of separateness. I drew an angel card message for my journey and received "Wedding or Mystical Marriage", confirming my intention for commitment to my soul and dissolving separateness within myself.
It was official now, this trek was more than a hike, it was a spiritual endeavor. With one more prayer, I put on my shoes and backpack, and headed out the door.
I couldn't see the top of the mountain from where I started by the island’s harbor. I could see on the map that I would walk up the stone stairs through town, until I climbed above all of the houses. Then I would go through the countryside and eventually meet a path leading to the monastery. It was all a mostly uphill, steep climb.
As I started heading up all the crooked, uneven stairs, it was fun to see the houses, doorways and shops along the way. It was a vigorous hike, but I felt strong from the hearty meal I’d had that morning.
The view from above the town was stunning. I was so happy I was making this journey and getting to see the island from this new perspective. I felt alive and free as I headed upwards toward the mountain.
To support my journey, I began to repeat and sing mantras to keep my focus and intention. I would chant one for a while and then switch to another. I chanted Aad Guray Nameh, Ek Ong Kar Sat Gur Prasad, and Gobinday Mukhanday.
After a while, I noticed it was getting hotter and hotter. The sun was strong. I paused under a tree with shade to cool off. I seriously thought about turning back and heading down to the coast, not imagining how I could make it all the way to the top in the heat. I imagined myself beginning again the next day, early in the morning, and reasoned that I’d already be familiar with the path, making it easier the second time.
I gave myself full permission to turn around. I already felt accomplished. I turned to my prayer and inner discernment for the best course of action, knowing that this pilgrimage wasn't only about the external journey, but about the inner journey of following my heart and truth in each moment.
I did the Ek Ong Kar Sat Gur Prasad Celestial Communication at this spot, still sitting under the tree in the shade, reminding myself of the Oneness of All and the grace that I receive in every moment. I felt rested and decided to go a little further, just to be a little more familiar with the path for the next day.
As I stepped forward, I found I had more energy after resting and was enjoying the wildness of this part of the path, which had turned to dirt. I started to sing the Narayan shabad as I focused on purification. I let myself tap into the coolness of the Aegean sea that I could see as I glanced back every now and again.
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I stopped several more times to pause, anywhere that I could find a little shade. I’d rest and then feel called to keep going, always knowing I could turn around at any time.
I reached a point where I felt I’d gone far enough and that it was time to turn around. It wasn’t going to get any easier. But just when I was about to turn back, I came upon a cobblestone road lined with pine trees. I asked myself calmly and openly, “Is it in alignment for me to keep going?”
I saw that the path would be simpler now. I wouldn’t need to find my way, figuring out which path to choose or which rock to step on. It was a paved road that appeared to lead right to the monastery (eventually). That meant less thinking and even more space for meditating. The pine trees also felt like friends, offering shade and support, as well as a place to rest if I needed.
So, I ventured on this new road. And then, even more encouragingly, I met a couple of pilgrims coming down from the top. It was great to know that they’d made their way up and down the path. They were tired, but had supportive words for me, including to take my time on the way up, rest when needed and drink lots of water.
I took their advice and turned to a new mantra, Guru Guru Wahe Guru Guru Ram Das Guru as I continued onward. It was demanding but simple now, walking and quietly reciting the mantra. Pausing to rest then starting again. And occasionally meeting more pilgrims on the path.
Soon I reached the final ascent, which turned out to be the most difficult part of the entire path. Rocky steps led up to the monastery. No shade. Part of me wanted it to be over, to turn back. But I’d made it so far, I was so close.
For all of my devotion, I didn't want to compromise my health on this journey, so that’s why I kept checking in with myself, with my body, with God. At this point, I kept cautiously walking, bit by bit, finishing the last of the 1,700 vertical feet from where I’d started in the harbor that morning. Meditating, silently chanting with each step.
When I was within reach of the monastery gates, I was delirious and started to hallucinate. The steps and shrubs were moving! I knew I was in trouble, but there were only a few more steps, and I trusted that I'd make it and be okay.
I arrived inside the monastery and there was joyous, beautiful shade. There was a sweet welcome room with water and turkish delights (sweets) for pilgrims. There were all kinds of things you could buy too, like myrrh and lip balm. I felt so welcomed and nourished here with so many thoughtful things to take care of the body as well as the spirit.
I had arrived! And now I felt like I was going to my own mystical wedding with God. I cleaned myself up and nourished myself with refreshments before I entered the church. As I moved into the area outside of the sanctuary, glorious clouds appeared covering the sun and cooling down the stone buildings and courtyard that had been scorching. It felt like a miracle that I had made it to this point. And now the coolness felt like kindness.
In the sanctuary, I offered prayers and donations; I lit candles and incense. Enjoying these physical representations of prayer which make them more real and tangible.
Then I circled the sanctuary, chanting Guru Guru Wahe Guru Guru Ram Das Guru. It had been a long and challenging journey, and now with a sky full of clouds above me, I felt deep grace and gratitude.
I ate more fruit and nuts and enjoyed the view of the sea from the top of the island. I felt the cool breeze. And when I was all filled up, it was time to descend the mountain.
The coolness remained and the walk downhill was such an easeful contrast to the uphill challenge. On the ascent, I had immersed myself in mantra to give me courage, stamina, and faith. On the descent, I chanted in gratitude for the gift of this journey. I did Celestial Communications to acknowledge the grace I had received.
I felt reminded of the balance in life to stay connected with sacred sound, with the One, with the soul, whether that’s in the midst of challenge or ease, when giving or receiving, during the ups or the downs.
As with all things, the connection changes with the circumstances. Climbing up the mountain, my connection with the mantras was more intense. I was building a fire within me. On the way down, the connection felt more light and playful. My arms danced and floated in Celestial Communication movements as I journeyed back to the harbor. Both of these circumstances present amazing opportunities for connection. Mantra, movement and music include our emotions. When we allow ourselves to feel them, we discover our many forms of devotion.
Ultimately, it was still a long journey back down the path. Though it was not as strenuous, my legs were tired. I stopped along the way at several points, chatted with pilgrims making their way up, and simply enjoyed it all. Every moment, every step, presenting an opportunity for gratitude for this journey.
Amazingly, several months later, I still find myself in awe as the blessings remain ever-present. The strength I gained on that path continues to support me through challenges, while the memory of wonder and awe inspires me to embrace opportunities both in daily life and in the adventures that lie ahead.
The mantras have stayed with me, resonating more deeply and viscerally than before. These are the mantras that carried me up the mountain, where I experienced true joy and gratitude. Their meaning is now more personal and closer to my heart.
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"Faith is not the clinging to a shrine but an endless pilgrimage of the heart." ~ Abraham Joshua Heschel